AF-A is where the camera selects and goes between the last two modes. If it thinks the subject you are photographing is stationary, then it will automatically use AF-S focus mode. MF is the manual focus mode. The default camera setting is AF-A. As mentioned earlier, this mode guesses if the subject you are photographing is stationary or moving, and accordingly sets the focus to either AF-C or AF-S. You can now follow the assignment below for a lesson on how to switch between focus modes, with a Nikon D Other Nikon models are similar.
All these focus settings are only available when the camera lens is in auto focus mode. This means the camera can control the aperture. Before AI-S, automatic exposure meant that the photographer selected the aperture, and the camera would measure the light and select an appropriate shutter speed. Aperture priority or A on the mode dial. With AI-S lenses, shutter priority S on the mode dial is also possible, where the photographer selects the shutter time and the camera the aperture, or the camera selects both program or P mode.
Ironically, even though modern cameras still use that same system with modern lenses, they 'll only work in A or M manual mode with AI and AI-S lenses, not S or P mode. This also means that modern cameras don't care about the difference between AI and AI-S: since you control the aperture through the aperture ring on the lens, they work exactly the same.
However, lower-end cameras such as the D3xxx and D5xxx don't have the aperture feeler so you lose light metering. On the D7xxx and higher, you can use these lenses in A and M modes with light metering, but modern cameras lack the mechanism to determine the maximum aperture of these lenses, so you have to go into the menu and enter the focal length and maximum aperture under the "non-CPU lens" settings.
The aperture selected with the aperture ring then shows up in the viewfinder and LCD display s as well as in the EXIF data, along with the focal length. This helps determining the depth of field through the matching colored lines that indicate how far before and after the distance the focus ring is set to sharpness extends.
On AI-S lenses, the highest aperture value is in orange. In , Nikon introduced autofocus AF lenses. This works though a little screwdriver that sticks out of the camera, which connects to a screw in the lens that is connected to the focus ring. With this, a motor in the camera can adjust the focus.
The camera uses a number of focus sensors to determine whether different parts of the image are in focus and turns the screw accordingly. The camera communicates with the CPU in the lens electronically and learns the focal length and minimum aperture of the lens that way. This allows autofocus cameras to do their through the lens light metering and use S and P as well as A and M.
And AUTO. This retracts the screwdriver so it's possible to turn the focus ring freely. Metering and program modes are not affected.
On cameras without a focus motor or in manual focus mode, the autofocus system in the camera will still tell you if the image is in focus or not with the focus confirmation dot in the viewfinder. However, when used on an AF camera, the aperture must be set to the minimum. There's a little lock tab that keeps it there.
The aperture is then set manually or automatically through the camera. The D in model designations indicates that the lens can tell the camera the distance the focus is set to.
This makes metering a little easier. At some point Nikon started building lenses that are no longer AI-S compatible. These are lenses with G in the name. Most notably, G lenses lack an aperture ring. All G lenses are also D lenses.
Although the original AF system works well and allows for smaller and lighter lenses, in Nikon introduced AF-S not to be confused with autofocus single mode, also called AF-S.
AF-S lenses have their own focus motor built in. Nikon uses ultrasonic motors, which they call "silent wave". Makers of third party AF-S compatible lenses such as Tamron, Tokina and Sigma have their own names for this type of motor. Each company also has their own name for what Nikon calls VR, vibration reduction, which moves a lens element in real time to counteract camera movement during the exposure. Unlike the aperture ring, which is now pretty much a thing of the past, they all do have a manual focus ring.
A switch on the lens itself switches between autofocus and manual focus. On some mostly cheaper lenses this is a mechanical switch that disconnects the focus motor from the focus ring so the focus ring can be moved safely and easily. On these lenses, the focus ring rotates with autofocus, and the autofocus switch switches between A and M. Selecting manual focus through the camera will turn off autofocus but not release the motor from the focus ring.
Of course moving the switch on the lens to the M position also turns off autofocus. With older Nikon lenses, typically turning the focus ring all the way to the right sets focus to infinity.
With newer lenses, this is usually not the case: they'll focus a little bit beyond infinity, so you have to use autofocus or manual focus to set the lens to infinity. All Nikon lenses until are designed to project an image that covers a piece of film or an image sensor that size.
These are 24 by 16 millimeters actually This means that a 50 mm lens on a DX camera produces the same angle of view as a 1. Conversely, to get the same result as with a 50 mm on FX, you need a 35 mm lens on DX. So DX is said to have a "1. FX lenses work just fine on DX cameras, but the problem is that a wide angle lens isn't so wide with the effective focal length multiplied by 1. So in Nikon introduced lenses specially made for DX cameras, taking advantage of the fact that the image that the lens has to project is 1.
For the same or similar focal length or focal length range the DX version is typically cheaper than the FX version, if both are available. DX lenses are not useful on film SLRs because the corners of the image will be dark or even black.
They simply switch to crop mode, where only the center area of their bigger sensor is used. With a year history, there are of course tons of additional details, exceptions, caveats and more. But the above is pretty what you need to know about Nikon lens compatibility before you go lens shopping.
Good luck! Nikon has done this smart, unlike Canon. Canon, on the other hand, really screwed their loyal following by completely changing mounts. That means that modern Canon users no longer have access to the superlative Canon FD lenses. Way to go Canon, just one more reason why I will stick with Nikon, who I have used since What a load. The Nikon F compatibility chart is longer than most Russian novels and just as hard to keep straight.
Their system was mimicked by others. Hi, may I ask then? In short, the answer is no. The feeler around the lens mount will most likely be damaged if you try to mount a non-AI Nikkor. If you want to use the old Nikkors, you have two choices, have the aperture ring modified to AI standards or do like I did with one of my old non-AI Nikkors, do it yourself with a Dremel cutting tool. Unless you are good with tools and know exactly where to cut given the maximum aperture of the lens, you are advised to let it be accomplished by a professional.
Are there any other fully compatible lenses out there? In answer to the digital vs. I have a couple of mint non-AI lenses purchased new in Hong Kong around or so, never used. I just got them from my father-in-law, but I'm not familiar with Nikon lens system.
The aperture lever moved in a linear instead of a logarithmic travel and the FA and F4 cameras altered their Program mode shutter speed if a long lens was mounted to use a higher shutter speed.
I enjoyed this article and learned a few things too. I am a fan of older lenses probably because of their price! I certainly recommend beginners not to buy them. I like manual focus, and have a few Samyang primes.
The article helped me to understand why the camera gets the exposure wrong at the widest apertures. The question remains, can I be bothered inputting some CPU data or just add. This is true, but incomplete. The pertinent fact is that on an AI-S lens, the highest f-number on the small ADR scale at the bottom of the aperture ring is orange, whereas on AI lenses this number is white, like all of the other numbers on the ADR scale.
The other reliable indicator of an AI-S lens is that it has a shallow divot scooped out of its mount. This divot, which looks like the impression a smooth-edged coin makes when its edge is lightly pressed into clay, identifies the lens to certain autofocus bodies as an AI-S lens.
At some point, Nikon introduced lens coating which reduced ghost flares and other optical anomalies. I believe that came in with the AI generation. Today, however, I think the greatest difference in the optics will be a function of how well the lens has been treated over the years. Any idea why this is the case?
It seems to be a surprising limitation unless it's some marketing stunt? A few years late to the party, but there is a physical reason for this limitation. The camera body must actually be able to set the lens' aperture for the S and P modes to work, whereas the camera need only read what the existing aperture is for the A and M modes.
The same limitation applies to any camera system when a lens is mounted or no lens is mounted thad doesn't allow the camera body to control the aperture. I have been trying to sell a few old items It is probably an AI lens mount.
In trying to determine the lens' value, I was wonder if older lenses like this, from the film camera bodies, can be used on the newer modern digital cameras? I am presuming that this lens would not fetch anywhere near that much. There is a workaround if you need to stop the lens down on an older camera or for reversing the lens for macro, but it requires a DSLR that works with it. The default position for E lenses is to be wide open when not connected to a camera.
G Lenses The predecessor to E lenses, G lenses have a physical aperture lever, and when not connected to a camera their resting state is to be fully stopped down. However, unlike D lenses, G lenses do not have an aperture ring. Some very old cameras are unable to change the aperture of G lenses, but all DSLRs should be able to, along with many film cameras.
As far as I can tell, all G lenses are also AF-S lenses, meaning they have a focusing motor built into the lens. D Lenses The D series of lenses came before the G line.
D lenses have an aperture ring, so with older cameras you could control the aperture from the lens. Often photographers refer to D lenses without focusing motors as AF-D lenses. Note that the D stands for Distance, meaning that D lenses provide camera to subject distance information to the camera.
G and E lenses do the same, and thus are technically also D lenses. However, when we talk about D lenses we almost always mean the lenses with D in the name. Ai-P Lenses Ai-P lenses are manual focus lenses, but they were the first Nikon lens line to get a CPU chip allowing for more advanced automatic exposure use with cameras.
There are only three Ai-P lenses, the popular mm f4, the mythical mm f5. As with other lenses of the era, there is an aperture ring but by setting it to the minimum aperture it can be controlled by the camera. Like the Ai-S lenses before them, the aperture could be set via the aperture ring or by the camera if set to the minimum aperture. Ai-S Lenses Ai-S stands for Auto Indexing Shutter, and Ai-S lenses were the first Nikon lenses that allowed the camera to control the aperture when set to the minimum aperture on the aperture ring.
This allowed them to be used in shutter priority mode, hence the term shutter in the name.
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